On the rare occasions in 2014 when conditions permitted, I encouraged the novices among my friends to come out onto the Ure. Some of them are more than keen enough, but lack the confidence to go out alone. Others work too hard and need to be forcibly prised out of their offices or bribed with a birthday gift of a day's fishing. Others that I know less well turn up on the river of their own accord. What follows is the product of observation of their and my activities, suitably anonymised. It should come as no surprise that the Seven Deadly Sins of Common Novice Errors feature: they wouldn't be Common otherwise.
Lesson 1 - Smile and be happy
No matter how dire 2014 has been, fishing is still far better than working. Relax, enjoy the beautiful surroundings and the good company. I learned in my rural childhood that there was no point worrying about the things you couldn't change, and to treat whatever nature offered me as a bonus.
Lesson 2 - Don't forget the fly
I wrote about this in Common Novice Error No 5. We become so wrapped up in trying to cast well that we forget its purpose. I watched one novice doing the Single Spey and creating exquisite loops in 4/5 of her casts. Unfortunately, in only 1/5 of the 'good' casts was the leader anything like straight. With the other 4 it was all wriggled up, leaving the fly dead in the water thereby wasting all the prior effort and concentration.
The golden rule applies:
No tension = No wiggle = No stimulation = No takes = No fish
In anything other than fast water and shallow casting angles the fly won't sort itself out until it's nearly at the dangle. You have to do something positive. No matter how much it grieves you to forego any of your hard won distance, you must strip in enough line to straighten the leader and get the fly working effectively. Moving the rod round to right angles to the current also helps.
Lesson 3 - Tomatoes aren't heavy
|#10 WF Intermediate Tomato|
Question: If you stuck a cup on the end of your salmon rod, how far could you throw the golf ball or tomato?
Answer: If you don't make a positive stop, about 13 feet! If you do, about 60 yards with minimal effort.
So just relax; apply only the force that's appropriate to a tomato (don't rip the skin off, it's messy); and remember it's the stop that makes it go!
Lesson 4 - Only salmon kick
I've previously said that you don't feel when the salmon takes the fly, because most often it's coming towards you. What you feel - and many people mistakenly call the take - is when the fish turns away back towards its lie. There's a fuller explanation of all this in Crash! Bang! Pluck!
|Hard taking leaves|
the bane of autumn fishing
Of course autumn leaves give the best takes of all - forceful, realistic and nerve-jangling. But once they've taken, they don't swim sideways and struggle (only branches do that) so you quickly get the message.
There are plenty of hungry brown and sea trout in the Ure, quite ready to attack the biggest tube in your box. Indeed, the bigger the better: one feisty little chap was no bigger than the full dressed length of a 1.5 inch Cascade. They take with an unmistakable sharp bang, but again, there's no Premier League kick.
Only salmon kick, so unless it kicks, don't think you've missed a salmon, only a trout!
Lesson 5 - Sometimes there's no easy option
Dead Tree Lie, West Wood Pool, Bolton Hall
30 October 2014
Superb pool, plenty of fish, shame about the rise
It's hard enough catching salmon at the best of times, but once the water begins to rise, it gets even more difficult. Yes, there's a brief period at the start of the rise that can be good, but thereafter things are turning against you. Not only is it getting heavier and colouring, which means re-scoring and changing the fly or more, but also the fish start behaving differently.
In his magisterial tome 'Atlantic Salmon Magic', Topher Browne espouses a theory about behaviour-influencing hormones being triggered by increases in water flow past the salmon's flanks. Put simply, they become wholly focused in running mode. I don't know whether or not it's valid - the lift certainly excites the leaves - but it may explain why salmon are harder to catch in rising water. My normal response to the fish going into running mode is to shift into ambush tactics at places where the running line is confined or changes track abruptly. Unfortunately that option wasn't feasible in West Wood, where the fish could employ the entire 30 yard breadth, and the first defile is a good half mile (800m) downstream. In those circumstances there's no choice but to reach for the trusty Cascade Conhead and a sink tip, and then get on with covering the water, in the remote statistical hope of putting it right on the nose of a hormonally aggressive cock fish. Sometimes there's no easy option.
Lesson 6 - Have the right tools
17 October 2014
8lbs grey hen
Here is my one and only salmon of 2014, where I least wanted it - on the bank rather than in the water where it belongs. The reason it's misplaced is because the kind and well-meaning person who acted as No2 on the net was armed with a pair of forceps better suited to removing a #18 dry fly from a trout. They certainly weren't up to the demands of a rock solid, side-jaw, opposite bank, two-hook, dynamite-proof hold deep into the gum of a strong and uncooperative fish. Indeed, during the fight the feisty beast had thrown herself up the grass bank at the end of a determined 20 yard run upstream, before wriggling back into the water. In the event she swam strongly away from release.
However, on balance it's better to knock a bigger hole in the salmon's jaw by being forcefully quick in the water than it is to risk oxygen deprivation and consequent brain and heart damage by having it out of water too long for pretty surgery. It won't bleed much from the jaw gristle, which is not a wide pathway for infections (compared to the gills or vent). Make sure that your forceps lock positively and are big and strong enough to allow firm application. Mine are, but what I'd really like is a pair of ratchet action, rat-nosed pliers in stainless steel, at a much more affordable price than Mr Simms' £159 de luxe product. This may mean making friends with an orthopedic surgeon (they call them 'big hemostats': chunky operators those chaps - I'm told that they also use hammers and chisels on your hips). On second thoughts I'll avoid their acquaintance for as long as possible.
Lesson 7 - No surprise
|Upper Park, Bolton Water|
30 October 2014
The repeat of Common Novice Error 6 is on me. About 2 hours before this photo was taken I had waded across to fish West Wood above: a straightforward exercise with good studs and a stick. Whilst I was fishing the river rose about 4"/10cm. Even that small amount changed its character from placid to what the picture shows. When I came back the prospect of a 1 mile hike to the Lord's Bridge led me into the danger zone of misjudgment and lack of respect for the power of water. About 5-6 yards out from the near bank I slipped and went for a 40-50 yard swim.
The rules of the game of swimming in waders are:
- In fast water, once you're going, don't try to stand up, because you'll fail, and at worst go end over end, which is both undignified and dangerous.
- If you can (or if you think you're about to go), get rid of the rod onto or towards the bank. Thrown reel end first it flies quite well and you're unlikely to fracture a section. If you miss the bank you're more likely to recover it in the shallows than in the main flow
- Apart from your rod and hat, make sure that everything else is attached to you. Expensive sunglasses are the most common casualty.
- Try to fall backwards. Failing that, turn onto your back as soon as possible to get the open front of your jacket facing upwards and out of the water. The pressure behind you stops much water coming up your back (mine remained completely dry).
- Relax, don't panic, you're very buoyant. Less than half a pint of water got into my waders, and I was able to fish out the rest of the day without great discomfort.
- Go with the flow whilst using a semi-backstroke to close with the nearest bank.
- When you get there, make sure you have a firm hold on grass/bush/tree/whatever before you start trying to get out of the water.
- Stand up; check your kit; look sheepish; curse yourself for your silliness; and politely ask the next rod down the beat to catch your hat (thanks Chris).
- Try not to repeat the performance, but don't be surprised when you do!
End of season packing up
A few quick reminders:
- Open up your reels and leave them to dry in a warm place for a couple of days before lightly greasing spindles and moving metal parts. Those models with unsealed brakes like the Vision Koma should be stripped,dried, cleaned, greased and reassembled.
- Give the lines a clean, lubricate and polish. Then store lines and reels somewhere cool and ideally dark (certainly not in direct sunlight which damages PVC line coatings; and not at risk of freezing).
- Throw away used leaders and all tippet materials, especially fluorocarbon.
- Wipe rod surfaces clean, whilst checking for any damage or cracks, especially near the joints. Some manufacturers (notably Hardy) recommend a very light waxing of the joints. I'm unconvinced, but if you do, ensure that they are 100% clean before applying anything.
- Dispose safely of all damaged flies.
- Wash jacket and waders with NikWax Goretex wash and re-proofer. Do not under any circumstances use conventional detergents which contain UV enhancers (that make your whites look whiter) which will make your legs appear silver-white to any salmon within 50 yards. When dry (inside and out), repair any obvious damage with AquaSure: then hang waders clear of the floor in a mouse-free place.
- Dry wading boots slowly, inspect for damage and repair. My trusty old Visions have finally expired after 8 seasons' hard work, and require replacement in the spring.