It’s
confession time.
Do we
spend any time thinking about how we are going to fish the pool in front of us?
Or, do
we just start at the top and make our way down pace by pace, trusting to Lady
Luck?
And, do
we always fish this pool the same way?
There
are plenty more questions where those came from, but three are enough to make
the point that we tend to apply more enthusiasm and energy than thought to the
challenge of catching salmon. I certainly did in my early years. Yet even a
short pause for thought leading to a simple plan can make a big difference.
Every
pool is different and changes every day: water level, colour and temperature;
air temperature and pressure; light, cloud and atmospheric conditions; and of
course the location of the fish. If we
tried to bring all of those factors into our thinking we would rapidly descend
into indecision because there’s too much to grasp and we don’t know what’s most
important. So we have to simplify.
First,
what do we think the fish are doing? Are
they running, holding or settled? If so,
where? (Have a look at last
November’s post – 'Where are they').
Start by eliminating all the places they won’t be – those less than 30”/75cm
deep; too insecure; too turbulent; too bright; or short of easy oxygen. You’ve now reduced the problem by half. Then work out the most likely running line
that salmon will follow from one end of the pool to the other: the short halt
lies will be on or very close to this line, and the holding areas not far
away. At the end of this process we have
a mental railway map of the pool, comprising a main ‘running’ line from end to
end; some ‘stations’ along it where fish congregate at the short halt; and some
adjacent ‘sidings’ for slower-time holding areas. Like all railways, the map is very narrow: 90% of all the hen fish I have ever caught took within a couple of metres of the running line. (We’ll
leave the more distributed resident fish snoozing on their ‘branch lines’ in peace for now).
Second,
how deep is the water along the railway and how fast is the flow? (See the
‘Deep Thinking’ post). The answers
determine your initial choices of leader and fly size, but you should be ready
to change both as you progress down the pool.
Third,
where is the main flow and what is the current profile across the river? Are there any obstacles or disruptions to the
flow that will affect the movement of our line and the correct presentation of the fly?
This example shows a common current pattern,
with the strongest flow in the middle and a relatively quiet margin under the far
bank. A standard cross-cast (1) that
reaches the assumed lie under the far bank causes the fly to land and anchor in
slack water, whilst the line rapidly bows (2), which causes the fly to travel downstream
(3) at high speed. This will not sort
itself out until the fly has reached the centreline, so half the cast was
wasted.
The
usual remedy is ‘mending’ the line – throwing a loop upstream with a ‘semi-cast’
to take out the bow. Getting this right
takes effort and practice. If you are
using a sink tip and weighted fly its efficacy is reduced because the far end
is firmly stuck in the water. In this
case the cast (1) is followed by a mend (2) M2, which stops the problem getting
worse, but you still waste the first third of the swing and all of the extra
effort involved in getting to the far bank.
The simple message is don’t bother.
Not only are there probably no fish there anyway, but mathematically you improve your chances by a massive 50% by working a more modest 60% of the water with your fly behaving properly. An oblique cast to just beyond the centreline (1) produces a sustained line shape (2) that creates the ideal direction of fly travel (3). Most importantly, the fly is effective immediately because you can take any slack in the leader with a small movement of the rod tip.
Not only are there probably no fish there anyway, but mathematically you improve your chances by a massive 50% by working a more modest 60% of the water with your fly behaving properly. An oblique cast to just beyond the centreline (1) produces a sustained line shape (2) that creates the ideal direction of fly travel (3). Most importantly, the fly is effective immediately because you can take any slack in the leader with a small movement of the rod tip.
Of course there’s a place for square casting, especially in slower water, and mending the line is an essential skill. But restraining your enthusiasm for hitting the far bank and opting for the oblique approach is a useful first step towards getting the fly in the right place.
Let’s now bring all this together in a practical example. The picture is a ‘railway’ map of the Garden Pool at Tomatin for a water level of +12”/30cm. The banks are green; the shallows grey; the main line red; the stations yellow (1-6); and the fast flow in blue (direction bottom right to top left). These 6 are not the only lies in Garden, but they are the most heavily populated, and the more fish there are in a lie, the better your chance of a positive response.
At this
water height and speed you want a larger fly (either a #6/8 double or a 1”
tube) and a 5’ green or brown sink tip (it’s around 6’ deep at point 3). Certainly you will need the brown tip to cut
quickly down through the turbulent water at lies 1 &2, remembering that the
more oblique your cast the slower the sink rate owing to the ‘lift’ of the
water on the line.
To get
the best fly presentation at lies 1 & 2 start well upstream and cast
obliquely down at around 30 degrees to the flow. This will keep the lateral speed under control;
give the salmon more time; and increase the fly’s exposure to any fish actually
running the main line. If you are going
to pull off a fluke it always pays to increase your chances. (By now you should have spotted that this pool
was the basis for the preceding current profile sketches.)
As you
move downstream move progressively closer to the near bank (there’s no prizes for
standing on a fish at 2); increase the casting angle to allow for the reducing
flow speed; and continue to resist the temptation of the far bank. Lies 3, 4 & 5 are typical mid-stream
boulder features. Although they are not
visible in low water, at +12” and above they create a ‘standing wave’ (i.e. one
that stays in much the same place in the current), as shown in the next
diagram.
A wedge
of static and slow moving water forms around the obstacle and forces the flow
upwards, creating waves at the surface.
The shape of the wedge varies with the size, number and distribution of
the rocks and the profile of the bottom. Note that the deflecting
effect of the current means that the standing wave is usually downstream of the
lie. Also that the wedge will form some
distance upstream of the front edge of the obstacle. Your target therefore
comprises the area upstream from the standing wave, possibly for as much as 12-15’/4-5m,
depending on the depth and speed of the water.
The width of the standing wave in the stream will give you a clear
indication of the lateral extent of the lie.
The salmon will be somewhere close to the bottom of the wedge that
allows them to hold position with minimum effort – in front, between, beside or
behind the rocks. Remember that they are
unlikely to venture far beyond its boundary to take, so you have to get the fly
into the wedge, moving laterally at about 45 degrees above and ahead of the
fish.
On her way back Garden Lie 6, 1430 pm, 12 September 2011 |
How Falkus would have written had he been a scientist; great blog!
ReplyDeleteCan you explain why the sand eel that is swimming downstream, at position 3 in the first picture, doesn't look 'alive' enough to the fish for it to take?
I agree the little nymph is probably travelling at warp speed, but on the grounds that the great sin is to have your fly looking like a bit of drifting leaf, I cannot understand what's wrong with the fly at 3. Any ideas?
A drifting vs fishing fly always reminds me of the old joke:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Whats-this-A-dead-one-of-these/110421425668818?hc_location=timeline